Strawberries, and only strawberries, could now be thought or spoken of. ‘The best fruit in England – everybody’s favorite – always wholesome.’ – Emma, Jane Austen.
Like Jane Austen’s Emma, I’m a fool for strawberries. They may very well be the best fruit – in England or elsewhere – and the best time to enjoy them is right now, today, this minute.
Here in New England, fresh local strawberries are at all the farmers’ markets now. Although the name’s the same, they seem to be a different fruit from the tasteless, woody things supermarkets sell in January. Today’s local strawberries are so sweet and juicy they remind me that in France and Italy the phrase “sugaring the strawberries” is used to suggest redundancy, in the same way that carrying coals to Newcastle is. It also implies that you are strange. If you’re sugaring the strawberries, you must be a bit barmy.
While January’s strawberries require all the help they can get. June’s and July’s are perfect on their own. They don’t need sugaring or cooking or anything else. But once in a while it’s nice to make something simple with them. Strawberry shortcake is fabulous. For a change, though, nothing beats that old-fashioned English dessert called a fool.
Dessert fools date back to at least the seventeenth century, according to the Oxford English Dictionary. Today they’re a simple mixture of crushed or pureed fruit blended with whipped cream. But early recipes were more like what we would call bread puddings. In those days, fools were made with cooked fruits, because raw fruits were thought to be unhealthy. After boiling it, the fruit was sieved and mixed with a custard or cream.
Gooseberry fool was the most common although Hannah Glasse, author of The Art of Cookery Made Plain & Easy, which was first published in 1796, also made an orange juice fool.
Today, the fruits are fresh, the cream is whipped, and the result is a light, luscious summer dessert.
A strawberry fool couldn’t be simpler to make. Although some cooks puree the strawberries, I like to mash them so they have more texture. A tiny splash of an orange liqueur or kirsch is a nice addition. Then just fold the mixture into sweetened whipped cream and enjoy.
Strawberry Fool
One pint of strawberries
One tablespoon orange liqueur or kirsch
One cup heavy cream
Two tablespoons sugar
Hull and chop or lightly mash the strawberries reserving a few as garnishes. Mix with the liqueur.
Whip the cream to soft peaks with the sugar. Fold the whipped cream into the strawberry mixture. Spoon into serving dishes or goblets and top each with one perfect strawberry. Chill briefly, if you like, and serve.