For Valentine’s Day newspapers, magazines, and food-centered TV programs will all run specials on aphrodisiacs.
Okay, so will I.
The belief that certain foods increase lust or capacity or desire has been around for centuries. In the Middle Ages, the idea was based on the Doctrine of Signatures. In a nutshell, it means that if a plant, its leaves, berries, roots, or even its color resembles some part of the body, it will have an effect on that part of the body.
The doctrine, which still has its adherents, is more complicated than my brief summary here. But to take one example, walnut shells have the “signature” of the head and walnut meats look a bit like brains. As a result, according to a 17th century exponent of the theory, walnut kernels ground up with some wine “comfort the brain and head mightily.”
Red fruits and flowers are thought to help diseases of the blood. They’re also associated with the heart, hence all those red valentines.
And plants, fruits, vegetables, or even seafood that bears some resemblance to male or female genitalia are thought to have aphrodisiac qualities.
You don’t have to have much imagination to see why oysters, figs, and avocados are served as foods of seduction. Or why asparagus, ginseng, and peppers are associated with virility.
Chocolate has long been considered an aphrodisiac, either because of the shape of the cacao pod or because of the sensuous way chocolate melts in your mouth. Which is why boxes of chocolates are ubiquitous at this time of year.
I don’t really believe in either the Doctrine of Signatures or in aphrodisiacs, so I’m serving ice cream to my valentine. The fact that the ice cream is made with red cherries and chocolate is just a coincidence.
Happy Valentine’s Day
Cherry Jubilee Ice Cream
2/3 cup dried tart cherries
Vodka
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
6 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons kirsch or leftover vodka
1/3 cup finely chopped bittersweet or semisweet chocolate
Chop the cherries, put them in a small bowl, and pour in just enough vodka to barely cover them.
Let them soak while you combine the milk and cream in a saucepan over medium heat. Let the mixture come to a simmer and then take it off the heat. Drain the cherries (save the vodka to add later if you’re not using kirsch), add them to the milk, cover, and let steep for 15 or 20 minutes.
Half fill a large bowl or saucepan with ice or ice water and set aside.
Combine the egg yolks and sugar in another saucepan and whisk until thick and pale. Stir a little of the steeped cream mixture into the egg mixture. Then gradually stir in the rest until it’s all combined. Place pan over low heat and cook, stirring gently, until it thickens enough to coat a spoon. Don’t let it come to a boil.
Pour into a clean bowl, then set that bowl in the one containing the ice. Be careful not to let any ice or water get in the ice cream mixture. Stir occasionally until it has cooled down. Stir in kirsch or vodka.
Cover with plastic wrap pressed against the surface so it doesn’t form a skin on top. Chill for at least 12 hours.
Churn in your ice cream machine, following manufacturer’s instructions. When the ice cream is nearly done churning, mix in the chocolate. Store in freezer until ready to serve. Makes one quart.