Sodas -- Some Like 'em Hot

Winter is the cruelest season for ice cream makers. It’s true today, but it was especially true at the turn of the 20th century. Winter business was so bad then that many soda fountains closed for the season.

Others tried all sorts of promotions and products to lure customers in during the coldest months. One of the oddest was offering hot sodas. This series of small space ads ran in an Iowa newspaper in 1888:

“Try hot sherbet at Billan’s Drug Store.”

“Have you ever tasted hot soda water. Try it at Billan’s Drug Store.” 

“The latest. Hot sherbet and hot moxie at Billan’s Drug Store.”

Most of the hot drinks were exactly what we drink today – coffee, tea, hot chocolate, beef bouillon, hot lemonade (great when you have a cold). But a few hot sodas were just that. Hot carbonated drinks.

The recipe for “Root Bear, Hot,” called for hot root beer, and was served with a slice of lemon or some lemon juice. I love the typo.
 
Despite the name, a “Ginger Wine Toddy, Hot” was not made with wine.  It was a combination of ginger syrup, tea syrup, currant juice, and hot water. It was topped with grated cinnamon.

“Pink Tea, Hot” was a mixture of equal amounts of green and black teas along with hot water and sugar. It was colored pink with “tincture of cudbear,” a red-violet food coloring made from lichens. 

Much as I like eggnog, I find the hot egg drinks unappealing because they were made without milk or cream. For instance, to make the “Cherry Egg Bounce, Hot” you were directed to mix a whole egg with cherry juice and sugar, and then add hot water. The drink was garnished with cherries, an orange slice, and a sprinkle of nutmeg.

“Turkish Punch, Hot” mixed egg yolk, grape juice, lemon juice, and sugar with hot water. It was topped with whipped cream and cinnamon.

Hot malted milk drinks were popular. The basic drink was malted milk powder and a bit of salt mixed with hot water.  Seasonings such as pepper, celery, salt, or sugar were often added and the drinks were topped with whipped cream along with a sprinkle of grated nutmeg or powdered cinnamon. Sometimes, hot milk took the place of the water. Soda expert E. F. White wrote that milk was not correct but “you have to humor your customers.”

Offering hot drinks at soda fountain led to other menu additions like chowder, then sandwiches, and finally full lunches. All of which helped business struggle through winter and reach the sunny days of summer.

Here is one of the hot drinks I like a lot. I don’t know whether it became what White called a “trade winner,” but it’s great way to warm up a chill wintry day. I use regular hot coffee instead of coffee extract. Two spoonfuls of malted milk makes it sweet enough for me. Experiment and enjoy.

Hot Malted Milk Coffee

Place 1-2 oz. of fresh coffee extract in a 7 oz. mug, add 3 teaspoonfuls of malted milk and fill to within half an inch of the top of the mug with hot water, stirring all the time. Let the customer sweeten to taste. Either a little sweet cream or whipped cream  may be added when desired. This is a most delicious method of serving malted milk, and may become a trade winner if properly advertised. --  The Spatula Soda Water Guide, E. F. White, 1901.
 

Comments

[Jeri Quinzio]

Hot ginger ale sounds like an old-fashioned cold remedy, doesn't it. I'll have to try it. Thanks, Jeri

[KMWall]

Years ago I went to Detroit, in February no less, and I was offered hot ginger ale. Werner's? It was a particular brand, and the buzz was that you could even heat it in the microwave. Evidently the real trick is to get it hot without getting it flat.The hot root bear sounds interesting...