Behind the Recipe -- Jeri Quinzio: The State of Baked Alaska

When the U.S. paid the Russians $7.2 million for Alaska in 1867, the purchase inspired several icy epithets and one terrific dessert.

People called Alaska “Johnson’s Polar Bear Garden,” “Seward’s Folly,” and “Seward’s Icebox.” (President Andrew Johnson authorized the purchase. Secretary of State William Seward negotiated it.) The dessert was known variously as “Alaska, Florida,” “Ice-cream en Deguiser,” “Norwegian Omelette,” “Omelette Surprise,” and, finally and forever, Baked Alaska.

Just in case there’s someone out there who doesn’t know, typically Baked Alaska is cake topped with ice cream, covered in meringue, and baked until the meringue is golden.

The principle behind insulating the ice cream with meringue so it could be browned without melting the ice cream was discovered by inventor and scientist Benjamin Thompson, aka Count Rumford, early in the 19th century. But it was at Delmonico’s, New York’s great Gilded Age restaurant, that the dessert became famous. Chef Charles Ranhofer created a dish he called “Alaska, Florida.” It consisted of individual cakes topped with vanilla and banana ice cream molded into pyramids, covered with meringue, and colored in a hot oven.

Mrs. Mary Lincoln, author of the Boston Cook Book (1884), called her version of Baked Alaska “Ice Cream en Deguiser.” Although she said it was recommended “chiefly for its novelty,” the dessert has endured.

In the 1960s, Baked Alaska became America’s go-to company dessert, probably because everything except the meringue could be bought, rather than made. Most recipes called for purchased ice cream and store-bought or made-from-a-mix cake. So all the hostess had to do was whip up some meringue, pull the cake and ice cream combo out of the freezer, frost it with the meringue and pop it in the oven for a couple of minutes.

It was not only easy and impressive, it was infinitely variable. The 1967 edition of the Better Homes & Gardens Dessert Book featured six different Baked Alaska desserts. “To-each-his-own Alaskas” topped individual cake dessert cups with balls of vanilla ice cream rolled in chopped walnuts or crushed peppermint candy, covered them with meringue and baked them.

Raspberry sherbet and a garnish of sliced canned peaches turned baked Alaska into “Melba Alaska.” “White Mountain Alaska” substituted a baked pie shell for the cake, and was served with chocolate sauce. The recipe for “Ribbon Alaska Pie” also called for a baked pie shell. The ice cream was layered with fudge sauce, and crushed peppermint-stick candy was added to the meringue.

“Mile-high Mocha Alaska” was based on a brownie layer rather than a cake. A recipe for the brownie layer was given, but a note added, “For a speedy Alaska, use brownie mix.” The recipe suggested chocolate and coffee ice creams.

“N-M Fresh Flowerpot,” the most unusual recipe of the group, was attributed to Neiman-Marcus. It consisted of individual baked Alaskas made in “real red-clay flowerpots!” After the meringue was browned, you were instructed to “Poke two soda straws into each dessert as channels for flower stems. Insert flower in each straw – in the Zodiac Room at Neiman-Marcus, they use garnet roses.”

Your Own Baked Alaska

Make it ’60s style with store-bought components or be contemporary and make everything from scratch. Either way, it’s an elegant dessert.

The base can be one cake or brownie layer, several individuals ones, or a baked pie shell. Whichever you prefer.

Choose your favorite flavor or flavors of ice cream.

Make a meringue. If you like, sprinkle it with coconut, slivered almonds, or confectioners sugar.

Place the base on a rimless cookie sheet (for easier removal after baking).

Top it with the ice cream. Cover with the meringue. Place in freezer.

When ready to serve, put it in a preheated 475 degree oven for about three minutes or until the meringue browns. Slide it off the cookie sheet onto a serving platter and wow your guests.