Marshmallow's Rocky Road

 

After years in the culinary wilderness, marshmallows are having another moment. I hope this one doesn’t become as over-the-top as the last one.
 
Marshmallows started out as medicines. They were made from the marshmallow plant root, which was thought to cure coughs and colds. In the 18th century, European confectioners blended egg whites and sugar with the sticky sap and made
marshmallow confections. 

As marshmallows evolved from treatments to treats, the plant that gave them their name was abandoned because of its unpleasant taste. It was all right for cough medicine, but not for sweets. Gum Arabic and then gelatin stood in for marshmallow. Eventually, even the egg whites became superfluous. By the 20th century, they were being made with gelatin, water, sugar, and/or corn syrup. Marshmallows were lighter, sweeter, and fluffier than their predecessors.
 
When marshmallows became available commercially, home cooks were only too happy to buy rather than make them. In the 1930s and ‘40s, all sorts of marshmallow dishes emerged. During World War II, marshmallows were a popular ingredient because they added sweetness to dishes without using rationed sugar. Cooks melted marshmallows into cake fillings and frostings, mixed them into ice creams, cut them up (before mini-marshmallows debuted) and stirred them into gelatins and even salads.

They made tea sandwiches from small circles of bread topped with marshmallow cream, walnuts, raisins, and maraschino cherries. Their “Scotch Kisses” (marshmallows coated with sugar syrup) are unfair to both Scotch and kisses.

I think the worst offender is the infamous sweet potato casserole. Topping sweet potatoes with marshmallows and serving the dish on an already overburdened Thanksgiving table was and remains a bad idea.

These days, chefs, bakers, and home cooks alike are whipping up fresh marshmallows and flavoring them with pumpkin, coffee, coconut, chocolate, you name it. They’re creating S’mores with home-made graham crackers, high-end chocolate, and made-from-scratch marshmallows. So far, no one’s making marshmallow tea sandwiches.

I think the one old-time marshmallow recipe that truly deserves a resurgence is rocky road ice cream. Whether you make it with the finest chocolate and home-made marshmallows or use regular grocery store ingredients, it’s a terrific ice cream.

Eat it quick. Before it melts!
 

Oddly enough, it was born during the Depression, not wartime. It was developed in 1929 by William Dreyer, founder of Dreyer's Grand Ice Cream. He cut up some marshmallows with his wife's sewing shears and stirred them into chocolate ice cream along with some walnuts. The name was said to have been a wry comment on the economic times. It's only too appropriate today as well.

Rocky Road Ice Cream

1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate
1/2 cup sugar
4 egg yolks
Pinch of salt
1/4 cup toasted, chopped walnuts
1/4 cup mini-marshmallows
2 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
 
Combine milk and cream in a saucepan over low heat. Add 6 ounces of chocolate and stir until it’s melted. 

Half fill a large bowl with ice or ice water and set aside.

In another saucepan, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until thick and pale. Stir a small amount of the chocolate cream into the eggs, then gradually stir in the rest.

When it’s all incorporated, place pan over low heat and cook, stirring gently, until it thickens enough to coat a spoon. Don’t let it come to a boil. Pour into a clean bowl and set it in the ice bowl. Stir occasionally until it cools. Cover with plastic wrap pressed against the surface so it doesn’t form a skin on top. Chill.
 
Churn in your ice cream machine, following manufacturer’s instructions. Combine the walnuts, marshmallows, and chocolate pieces. When the ice cream is nearly ready, add the reserved mixture. Store in freezer until ready to serve. Makes one quart.
 

 

Comments

[Ferrero Rocher philippines]

Thank you so much for the ingredients it looks so delicious,marshmallow chocolate is really great for sure my kids will love this so i will try doing this.:)

vee

[Jeri Quinzio]

Hi,

I think everyone loves Rocky Road ice cream. Let me know what you think when you try it. Thanks so much, Jeri